Never Hungry in Hungary

I’ve never considered myself a “foodie”. However, when my “Must-Do” list for Budapest had more food-stops than anything else, it was probably a sign that I should think about re-defining myself.

Before the grub, came the ATM. Joe walked into our apartment and laid over 100,000 HuF (Hungarian Forints) on the table! It really wasn’t that much money, but I have never had 100,000 of anything in my wallet, so it was pretty exciting. It’s the little things in life…

We tried to get Liv to roll around in the Forints on the bed, but she didn’t really find it as hilarious as we did.

forints

Armed with cash, we hit the streets…hungry and ready to eat! We learned about Hungarian Langos during our first Christmas in Europe and were pumped to actually get some from the source. We got a recommendation from a local and headed to a street vendor outside a random Metro stop. The Hungarian lady there threw the dough balls into the boiling vat of oil with such grace, then lovingly coated the fried frisbees with garlic sauce, and finally topped them with three meticulously-placed layers of meat, vegetables, and cheese. She was really into it, and they were amazing! Totally healthy…zero fat…I swear.

langosDon’t forget the goulash – which is more of a soup than a stew in Hungary. Also a Christmastime favorite in Germany, but definitely not served with cream-filled pitas, as we saw in Budapest. Totally healthy as well…zero fat…just trust me.

goulash

To top off our amazing street-food experiences (which also included juicy truck-burgers, fantastic pizza-by-the-slice, elusive tacos, and an IPA score by Joe), we happened upon a wine fest in front of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Amazing cheese and local wine with an awesome view on a great summer night? Umm…yes please! Can you say, I love this town?

wine fest

Our Hungarian tour guide said that the best way to deal with a wine fest hangover was to go to the baths. We enjoyed another beautiful day in Budapest at Széchenyi, the largest thermal bath in Europe.

baths

A hike up to Castle Hill really gave us a great view of the city and all of its beautiful landmarks laid out along the Danube. Pest, the flat eastern side of the city contains the Parliament building and St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Buda, the hilly west side is home to the Buda Castle, Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion. They are linked by the beautiful Chain Bridge and were united to form Budapest in 1873.

castle hill

Also along the bank of the river is the “Shoes on the Danube” memorial, 60 pairs of iron shoes commemorating the Jewish Hungarian victims of WWII. Between 1944 and 1945, thousands of individuals met a terrible fate at this same location. They were forced to strip naked, face the river, and then were shot in the back at close range by a firing squad. Plaques along the memorial are written in Hungarian, English, and Hebrew.

shoes memorialIt was soon time for a little more uplifting piece of culture. Honestly, I was expecting to fall asleep and regret this decision, but our evening with the Hungarian Folk Ensemble was so much fun! The ten musicians were really amazing, even playing in complete darkness at one point. There was a dance-off, ladies spinning around with bottles on their heads, hootin’, hollerin’, and plenty of boot-slapping to go around. We were clapping and cracking up the entire time. Pictures were not allowed, but I snapped this one really quickly at the end.

illegal dancing

Shortly before leaving for Hungary, we found out that our friends from Bulgaria were going to be about an hour away in Siófok. We couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet up with Olmsted pals and check out Lake Balaton. Siófok is Hungary’s spring break destination, called “the Ibiza of Hungary” by the tourism board, renamed “Panama City” by our friends! If I said I didn’t see topless jump roping and pants-less foam dancing, I would be lying. Ahhh…good people, good times, crazy memories!

Germany and Bulgaria…in Hungary

Germany and Bulgaria…in Hungary

We had such a great time in Hungary. Never hungry and never bored in Budapest…always shocked and always laughing in Siófok.

Bratislava or Bust

In this case…it was a bust.

We attempted to see Bratislava’s castle, but this is as close as we got…

castle gate

…because of this.

no Liv allowed

Oh well, it wouldn’t be the first time our canine companion was banned from touring a palace.

After seeing a few other sites, we decided to take advantage of the perfect weather with a picnic lunch. We headed to the largest “green” area on the map and figured there would be plenty of places to spread out our rations. Nope…no dogs allowed! Humans weren’t even allowed on the grass in this park. Isn’t that a defining characteristic of a park?!

We still managed to fritter away the entire day in Slovakia, even if Crazy Pants tried to ruin the fun.  You can’t win ‘em all.

castle

 

O5

First stop on the Vienna itinerary: the Spanish Riding School! Joe was such a good sport. He spent two and a half hours watching the Lipizzaners ride around in circles (something that could get pretty boring, even for an experienced rider) and then another hour on a tour. The Winter Riding School is a beautiful hall with two levels where spectators can peer over into the ring. Every morning, the public is allowed to watch “Morning Exercise”, 30-min training shifts of five horses each. There are over 70 Lipizzaner stallions at the Riding School, and another 100 or so at various training barns and facilities. Once a stallion becomes part of the school, he can never be sold. They take care of each stallion through retirement, which may last until the ripe old age of 40 (super old for a horse)!

Reitschule

Each horse also has their own rider, they never trade around. It takes more than a decade to become a “Rider” at the Riding School. Apprentices start with 1+ years riding exclusively on the lunge line (and doing all the chores); then they begin riding stallions that are already well trained, so that the horse can teach the rider…always under supervision, of course. After about three years the rider is given one stallion to work with, but the pair is still not allowed to perform. Another two years later, once the rider has proven that he can successfully train a stallion, he is given a few more stallions, still under supervision. Finally, if he is lucky, after another three to five years, he might become an Oberbereiter, or Senior Trainer. The attrition rate during the apprentice ship is huge.  Apparently, riders who already think they are pretty experienced don’t appreciate mucking stalls and not being allowed off a lunge line for several years. I can understand that.

Each stallion has two saddles and two bridles (one for training and one for performances). That is a lot of leather to clean! I don’t mind mucking crap…but cleaning tack is the worst! I probably won’t make it one week at the Spanishe Hofreitschule!

saddles

We spent a day at Schloss Schönbrunn, the summer residence of the Habsburgs, touring 40 of the 1441 rooms! Rain prevented us from really exploring all of the gardens and fountains, but it was still a pretty amazing place.

Schloss

True confession coming up: I really enjoyed visiting the Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery). Creepy? Maybe…but not nearly as creepy as some of the graves we saw. Stuff right out of the movies! The Zentralfriedhof is one of Europe’s largest cemeteries and is in fact bigger than Vienna’s downtown. It also contains more graves (2.5+ million) than the actual population of Vienna. There is a huge church in the cemetery, as well as a shuttle bus to get visitors where they need to go.

Dr. Karl Leuger Gedächtniskirche

Dr. Karl Leuger Gedächtniskirche

Most people go there to see the headstones of the big name composers: Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, Strauss. Not Mozart though. He has a monument in the Zentralfriedhof, but not a grave. He was actually buried in an unmarked mass grave, of which the exact location is unknown, in a different cemetery.

Beethoven

Here is what also happens at Zentralfriedhof when your husband has over 3,000 “favorite songs” on iTunes: you end up visiting the grave of another famed Austrian musician: Falco.

Falco grave

It's like he was looking right at us.

It’s like he was looking right at us.

You know what happens after you spend some quality time with Falco in his place of peace? Your husband’s “absolute most favorite 3000 songs” list increases by three and now you have to listen to Falco sing in English…and German. I love you Joe…you and your thousands of songs!

Alright. Now that we’ve seen every side of Vienna…it’s time to hit the road again!