We’re in St. Petersburg?! Whaaaat?!

We made it! After a successful visa process, several months of fretting over the Crimea crisis, an 18-hour overnight train from the Arctic Circle, and a half a dozen document checks…we were in Russia!! It was pretty surreal for us!

Here are just a few of our favorite stops.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral – This was actually my favorite cathedral in St. Petersburg. The outside doesn’t look too impressive, but the inside is absolutely gorgeous and the views from the top of the cupola were worth the easy climb. Special ships and a railway had to be built to transport the granite from Finland to make the huge pillars, which still hold scars from WWII. Our hotel was really close to St. Isaac’s so we got to know it really well. We saw it from every angle, during the day, at night, in sunshine, in the rain. When I reflect on our time in St. Petersburg, St. Isaac’s is what I see.

St. Isaac's Cathedral

St. Isaac’s Cathedral

Inside St. Isaac's

Inside St. Isaac’s

St. Peter’s Lutheran Church – This was also a fun church because during the time of communism (official religion: atheism) it was used as a swimming pool. It has since been converted back into a place of worship, but still retains a very aquatic look. There was actually German written everywhere and is more commonly called the German Church, as most of the members are German speakers.

St. Peter's Church

St. Peter’s Church

Inside St. Peter's

Inside St. Peter’s

St. Peter's as a swimming pool.

St. Peter’s as a swimming pool.

Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood – Based on St. Basil’s in Moscow, this church is where Alexander II was assassinated in 1881 and is dedicated to him (hence the icky name!). The interior is completely covered in mosaics…over 7,000 m2! During communism, this church was used as a storage space for stage settings from the Maly Opera Theatre.

Spilled Blood

Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

Inside the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood

The Hermitage – Can’t forget the Hermitage. It is actually the second largest museum in the world…behind the Louvre.

Palace Square and the Alexander Column from inside the Hermitage.

Palace Square and the Alexander Column from inside the Hermitage.

Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad – The Siege of Leningrad lasted from January 18, 1943 to January 27, 1944 and was the deadliest siege in history. Honestly, I knew very little about these 872 days, being American and living in Germany. A bit of conflict of interest there! However, the bottom line is that when innocent people die in atrocious ways on account of war, it doesn’t matter whose “side” they are on.

The city of Leningrad (now named St. Petersburg) was encircled by the Germans for more than 2 years and completely cut off from supplies. Citizens of Leningrad sustained themselves on bread made of sawdust and cannibalism actually became a problem. The defenders of Leningrad actually managed to push back the German forces, but at the horrible cost of over a million lives.

The memorial includes a 48m obelisk, a 40m ring symbolizing the city’s encirclement, a dozen statues, an “eternal flame” and a museum. It is also a traffic circle! Here is an aerial picture from the St. Petersburg website, which shows how large the monument is…something I couldn’t capture myself. We visited as the sun went down, and were totally alone, which made this dramatic memorial even more somber.

aeriel view monument

Leningrad Memorial

We also got to visit with the scholar who was preparing his move to St. Petersburg, and sample some local food and drink (horseradish vodka and salmon caviar blinis)! 2.5 days were definitely not enough in St. Petersburg. We walked our tails off and saw a ton of stuff, but there was so much more we would have gladly done! Maybe next time.

Next stop: Moscow!

66° 33′ 44″N

I was really excited to see the actual latitude line of the Arctic Circle. I have no idea why…I just was. Well, arriving at 66° 33′ 44″ N was a lesson in expectation management. This is all there was:

latitide

Santa Claus has his “grotto” exactly 100m north of this crappy longitude marker, so we decided to pay him a visit. Well…Santa was nowhere to be seen.

Dear Santa, you suck!

Dear Santa, you suck!

Given that we are adults and (spoiler alert!) know the truth about jolly ol’ Saint Nick, we decided NOT to wait 45 minutes to see him, which would have then required us to wait an additional hour and a half for our bus back to town. They should really have a stand-in for Santa when he needs a potty break!

We opted instead to drink a toast to failed Christmas wishes at the train station and prepare for our overnight train to Russia!

I also had really high expectations for our 18-hour train ride from the Arctic Circle to St. Petersburg. I have no idea why…I just did. Maybe because we reserved a “private sleeper cabin with en suite shower”. Apparently what this really meant was: a table that turned into a sink, no shower anywhere on the train, and toilets that emptied directly onto the tracks. Again, expectation management.

Please don't let that suitcase fall down...please don't let that suitcase fall down.

Please don’t let that suitcase fall down…please don’t let that suitcase fall down.

Look who got the top bunk!

Look who got the top bunk!

Well…there was nowhere to go but up from this let down of a day. So…Russia or bust, baby!

Run Run Rudolph…or not.

Seventeen months ago I set my heart on one date: April 11, 2014. This entire trip centered around one activity: Rovaniemi’s Reindeer Sprint Race. Sadly, at the airport in Frankfurt, we checked the internet and discovered that the races were cancelled due to lack of snow during this year’s horrifically mild winter in Europe.

If devastation could be captured in a screen shot, this is what it would look like.

If devastation could be captured in a screen shot, this is what it would look like.

Seventeen months! I didn’t even wait for my wedding day that long. “Disappointed” is far from adequate in describing my feelings about not being able to experience this event!

With sunken hearts, we headed north of the Arctic Circle anyway, and tried to salvage some sort of reindeer-fun! There was just enough snow left for us to enjoy a sleigh ride through the forest with some furry pals:

TJ3

Even though it is technically spring, and the winter has been unprecedentedly warm, we were still required to bundle up in insulated jump suits, wool socks and boots. Despite all these layers and a campfire, I still had frozen digits!

feet

Although not quite the spectacle that the Sprint Races would have been, it was still fun to get up close and personal with my favorite winter icon.  Our guide was really interesting and excited to share his experiences as a reindeer herder, and even cooked up some “arctic coffee” by the campfire.

arctic coffee

Don’t overlook the resting reindeer in the upper right corner!

through fence

through the trees

White reindeer are actually more rare and valuable than the “traditional” coloring we think of. This little guy is only three years old. Today was his first outing with tourists. He was a little skeptical, but he managed ok!

timid

one antler

tree sign

Here is Joe, wrestling with one of the reindeer for a lichen treat. Look at those crazy feet!

crazy feet

I guess I’ll just have to wait another 40+ years to see Rudolph run! I made Joe promise to take me back to see the reindeer races when we are old and retired and have nothing else to do with our time. Here’s to hoping!