My impression of Berlin is one of masterful deception. She is a wonderfully deceptive city, but deceptive nonetheless.
As you walk around, you see these fantastic buildings that look old and wonderful. Take the Berliner Dom, for example.
My afternoon of sunbathing in front of the Berliner Dom
This beaut is actually only 18 years old. The history of this building starts in 1451, it was destroyed by Allied bombs in 1944, and restoration completed in 1993. During the restoration, specific stones were used that appear to be older than they actually are. “Distressed”, just like Pottery Barn!
The Deutscher Dom, with its fantastic blue dome, is only 23 years old.
Deutscher Dom
If you visit Berlin in 2014 (at the earliest), you will be able to see the Berlin Palace, which was built in approximately in 1701 and is simply a hole in the ground right now. It will look just like it did in the 1700s. Deceptive indeed!
Only one man had the forethought and planning to save some of the great works of art, which is ironic because it was the response to his actions that resulted in annihilation of most Germany cities and their important buildings in the not so distant past. Hitler started taking down valuable and ancient statues from the tops of buildings as soon as he came into power. He buried some and wrapped others in chains to sink to the bottom of rivers. You can tell which statues have been recovered and replaced and which are re-creations simply by looking at the color.
Black = pre-war and survivor of a watery hibernation, green = post-war and potentially younger than you or I.
Top of Berliner Dom
We really jam-packed our 5 days in Berlin and saw so many amazing things! I have only included the few things that resounded strongly with me during our trip.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe- This is a spansive, yet un-complicated memorial left mainly to one’s individual interpretation. What struck me was the story behind the effort to protect the memorial. Graffiti is everywhere, all across Germany in fact, but the memorial is free of spray paint. In 2003, a project was started to coat the gray blocks in an anti-graffiti paint solution. The project was halted about a third of the way through. The media surfaced information linking the anti-graffiti paint company to a sister company who produced the chemical components used within gas chambers of the 1930s and 40s. The remainder of the project was completed, free of charge, by the paint company.
I found it interesting that such a stink was made about a sister-company. No one has stopped buying Hugo Boss, who himself was a member of the Nazi party, used prisoners of war and slave-laborors to sew clothes, and designed uniforms for the Hitler Youth, SS, and SA. What about Bayer and Mercedes Benz? I’m just saying.
East Side Gallery – This is the longest surviving portion of the Berlin Wall. One side is covered in graffiti, and not that interesting, while the other displays the works of over 100 different artists. Some of the works speak directly to the division of the city between 1961 and 1989, while others are just a pleasure to look at.
My favorite work contains the statement: so stark – und doch verletzbar – das Volk, der Mensch – der Wald, der Baum
so strong - and yet vulnerable - the people, the man - the forest, the tree
All of the wall pieces that still stand are completely exposed to the elements and human interference. We saw a teenager chipping away one day. It is fantastic to be able to see the wall, and touch it if you feel compelled, but at what cost? A lot of the paintings on the East Side Gallery have had to be re-done by the artists and some are lost forever. I feel confident that if the Berlin Wall stood somewhere in the United States, it would be covered by clear plexi-glass by now. Regardless of what the Germans choose to do with the pieces of wall that still stand, the ground will always hold the memory of those who where not allowed to trod freely atop it.
Berliner Mauer 1961-1989
Bebelplatz and Humboldt University – Bebelplatz was the location of the Nazi book burning of 1933. Humboldt University, locally known as a Nobel Prize factory because it has generated at least 40 Nobel Prize winners, sits across the street from the square. Everyday, as an act of continual repentance, the University sells books on the street of those authors who’s works were among the 20,000 burned.
Fat Tire Bike Tour – A friend recommended this tour to us, and I would highly recommend it to anyone else. We were hesitant to get on bikes for 4 hours in the cold and blustery winds of Berlin’s December, but it was a blast. I found it completely impossible not to chuckle out-load (over and over again) at eighteen auslanders (foreigners) on bikes trying to traverse the streets, parks, and locals of Berlin with minimal damage or loss. I think Joe is contemplating the purchase of a beach cruiser to replace his stolen mountain bike. Anyone find resemblances?
photo credit - www.passportforthesoul.com
Bis später, Berlin!
