Garmisch, Germany – Schnee und Eis

It was a wonderfully snowy weekend in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The two towns were joined in preparation for the 1936 Winter Olympics and now have bragging rights as the unofficial capitol of the German Alps.

Does it get any better than this?!

We also took some time off the slopes to see what else Garmisch had to offer. Severalski-jumpers were practicing off the old Olympic equipment, so we watched them take several leaps through the morning snow fall.

From the Olympic Stadium, Partnachklamm Gorge was a half hour walk, but worth the huffing. Until the early 1900s, the river was used to transport logs but was eventually shut down due to dangerous conditions and frequent deaths. Now, the 300ft. gorge is a National Monument and year-round tourist destination.

Dozens of waterfalls cascade to the tiny river below, but they were all completely frozen, creating an amazing visual delight of snow and ice.

              

                

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liv survived her first trip to the Hundepension. Traditional kennels as we think of them in the United States don’t really exist in Germany. So, a Hundepension is basically a person’s home and the dogs stay in the house as if they lived there. The woman doesn’t speak English, and asked if Liv understood German. I was like, come on lady, we are barely making it through a conversation ourselves in German. Fluency for humans first, then dogs!

Besides smelling like a barking cigarette when we picked her up, she didn’t seem any worse for wear. And now she even talks back in German!

der Haarschnitt

I haven’t had a haircut since I lived in the United States. Even then, I was so busy working and getting ready to move that I can’t even remember if my last haircut was in June or August! So, we are talking at least 5, perhaps 7 months of quality split-end collecting! I was basically wearing a hay bale on my head.

I finally mustered up the courage last week to call and make an appointment on the phone…in German. That was successful. At least something was.

Knowing that it could be challenging to explain what I wanted in German, I tapped into the old adage of “a picture is worth a thousand words”, and spent an afternoon gathering “good-hair-day” pictures of myself to take with. I felt pretty vain, but thought it would help.

When my Friseurin (hair stylist) arrived I showed her the pictures, used another Friseurin to help explain in English, and hoped that she understood. Time to wash. She gave me a fantastic head-massage which resulted in shampoo in my ears and half-way down my forehead, but she did a good job cleaning the suds up. Then she asked me to stand up while she dressed me in a gown. No joke. She put my arms through the sleeves, just like a coat, then tied it twice in front. (Were they nervous that my shirt was going to escape?) This was followed with a weighted neck-wrap that she draped over my shoulders to keep the gown in place. I couldn’t tell if I was at the hospital or getting an X-Ray at the dentist.

Time to cut. She pulled up a chair and sat down right beside me and started to comb. No hydrolic, spinning chairs, and no standing stylists. There was also no conditioner during the washing process, so even combing through my cobweb-thin hair was a challenge. A quick moment of déjà vu brought me to the side of the swimming pool as an 8 year old, being scolded by my mother, as she tugged and yanked, for failing to wash the chlorine out of my green-blond hair. The snip-snip of sharp shears ended that unpleasant memory.

I could feel the cold metal creep farther and farther up my neck. Why was she still cutting?! I told her that I wanted my hair to stop at my shoulders. As she inched closer and closer to my ears I feared that I had mixed up the words shoulder and chin. Then, she started to “texturize” the hair around my face… above my eyes! I know I didn’t say anything about eyes or foreheads. My German isn’t that bad. There she was, nevertheless.

Then came the moment every woman fears at the hair salon. As you are sitting in the chair, a big chunk of hair suddenly appears in the space between your face and the mirror, time freezes as you discern whether or not it is still attached to your head, and when you realize it has been erroneously severed from its follicles, you feel your stomach hit the floor before the hair even has a chance to settle in your lap.

She continued to chop and prune, trying to fix the un-fixable. Again, the déjà vu. This time I am in 6th grade and my mother has failed make a straight line of my bangs, resulting in hair so short that it stuck out like a tutu from my forehead. So, I think/hope the cutting is done as she blow dries and fusses and primps and sprays and seemingly procrastinates about declaring this the final product.

Her final response (in English): “Its short!”   Yup…ya think…

I undressed from the X-Ray proof neck guard and double-tie straitjacket, paid, and took as many deep breaths as the Earth had air for. I got on my bike and let the wind blow through my hair.

Oh wait…that last sentence is a lie. My hair was too short for the wind to get any traction in.

Joe and I always comment about how awful our elevator is because there is a full-length mirror that you can’t not look in. Even on a good day, nothing kills the self-esteem more than that elevator. I don’t know why I didn’t take the stairs today. I really should have. I really really should have.

I immediately got into the shower, hoping that my worst nightmare would wash down the drain. After combing, spraying, blow drying, pomadeing, barretting, and pony-tailing, the mirror could not lie. I was sporting an amazing new projection from my scalp: a nice clump of really short bangs that refuse to do anything but stick straight out.

I can deal with a haircut that is way too short. Hair grows. Thank God.

The new bug-antenna, on the other hand, is going to be a real Arschgrobbler.

Silvester

Joe and I got home around 5pm from Berlin tonight. We anticipated a
relatively quiet night, with dinner and drinks at home, and then a
walk to the bridge at midnight to watch fireworks. The cracks and pops
started around 6pm. Some of them sounded like there were exploding
inside our building. It was just a small pre-curser of what was to
come!

Around 11:30pm we heated up some Glühwein, filled the thermos, and set
out for the bridge. We had been told that everyone goes there at
midnight to enjoy fireworks, so I assumed that we would be able to see
the displays of several different towns from there. How totally wrong
I was.

As we walked down the street, our favorite bar/café was totally empty.
This should have been a clue, but I was assuming (wrongly) that
everyone did what Americans do on New Year’s Eve – flood the bars and
drink themselves to oblivion. Instead, Germans prefer amateur
fireworks. Specifically, professional-quality bottle rockets.

The first one I paid particular attention to went off right onto the train tracks. Ouch, I thought. That can’t be safe. Then several were lit underneath the bridge.
Hmmm…that also doesn’t seem like the best choice. My neighbors were
lighting them off their balcony. The closer we got to midnight, the
more bottle rockets were lit. It was unbelieveable! There was a constant rumble of explosions, some of them making it gloriously into the night air,
while others exploded (successfully or not, depending on your
perspective) right in front of our faces. Everywhere you turned, near
and far, the fireworks were exploding. We were shoulder to shoulder
with most of the town of Freiburg, each one prepared to bid farewell
to 2011 with their personal selection of explosives. Out of Champaign
bottles, beer bottles, in the middle of the street, between parked
cars, by kids, by adults. There was no count down to midnight. Just
thousands of pyromaniacs, lighting individual celebrations out of
bottles as fast as they could, in the pouring rain no less.

We were totally surrounded by exploding fireworks. It was actually
really beautiful and totally amazing…if you suspended all concern for
safety. Better than any professional display I have ever witnessed.

The video here was taken after midnight. It is not the best quality, unfortunately, as I was trying to get a 360 view as quickly as possible to keep the camera out of the rain, and the bridge structure blocks some of the view. However, if you listen to all of the explosions, and look into the distance as well as close by, you can get a small feeling of the unbelievable quantity of fireworks being lit.

Silvester on the bridge – video clip click here.

To close out the evening, we watched “Dinner for One”, a 20 minute
skit that has been playing on German television every New Year’s at
12:30am since 1963. It is the story of Miss Sophie’s 90th birthday
party. She has outlived all of her friends, so the butler “sits in”
for each of her 4 imaginary guests and he gets progressively
inebriated as he drinks toasts for all four guests during the
multi-course meal. Pretty funny actually. Watch it yourself! (click here)

“Same procedure as every year.”

Willkommen 2012! Shönes neues Jahr!