The Ladies Storm Corsica

This year, 2 female Olmsted scholars and 4 wives of scholars headed to Corsica, France for the annual “ladies” trip. It was SO much fun! This will definitely go on the list as one of my favorite trips! Corsica was so beautiful and the dynamic between the six ladies was fantastic. So much laughing and sharing and eating and drinking!!

The first day we headed north from Ajaccio (how do you pronounce it?!) to Piana for some hiking and views of Les Calanche (how do you pronounce it?!). It took quite a while to get there because we kept pulling over to gawk at the amazing views.

fence

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

We finally found our trailhead and set off!

trail marker

hiking

les chalenches

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

There were also a few spontaneous stops along the hike, because…well…sometimes you just feel the need to strike a pose!

yogaOur lunch stop was also amazing! The food AND the view!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The next day we headed south to Sartène to go horseback riding!! I really didn’t know what to expect here, and whatever I did expect would have gone right out the window anyways, because every part of this morning was a surprise!

Usually when a horseback ride is suitable for beginners, it means that you show up and everything is ready and set and all you have to do is get on the horse and ride. Not here! Everyone had to catch their own horse, groom him/her, tack up, and then do it all in reverse when finished.

Two of the six mounts.

Two of the six mounts.

Hard at work!

Hard at work!

Old horseshoe on the side of a stone barn in Corsica. So quintessential (it makes me want to gag!).

Old horseshoe on the side of a stone barn in Corsica. So quintessential (it makes me want to gag!).

After a short lesson, we headed out!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

“Don’t worry about the cows, they are friendly.”

“Don’t worry about the cows, they are friendly.”

This is how Olmsted ladies roll!

This is how Olmsted ladies roll!

Everyone was still smiling and walking when the ride was over! Success!

A job well done.

A job well done.

A HUGE thank you to Megan A. for being the fearless planner, Maureen for her tireless and patient translating, Arlene for spontaneous yoga fun, Megan F. for laughing at my jokes, even though they are seldomly funny, and Marilyn for being clever with the (embarrassing) details of any story I shared…and to everyone for being good sports on horseback!!

When is the Corsica reunion trip?!

When is the Corsica reunion trip?!

 

Poland: dziękuję!

When Joe and I started this “Olmsted Scholar adventure” we set a few goals for ourselves. One of those goals was to visit each of the NINE countries that share a border with Germany! Poland was the last country we needed to visit to reach that goal, and we were able to do it because of our wonderful families! As our Christmas gift last year, we asked them to send us to Paris. We had such a good time and loved involving our favorite people in our travels that we decided to do it again. This year, they sent us to Poland!

Here is a huge “dziękuję” to our families. Thank you for a wonderful trip, helping us reach our goals, and most importantly, for the love and support you continually bless us with.

Thank you to MIL & FIL Stickford and GM & GP Wall for the plane tickets to and from Poland!

airline tickets

When we fly somewhere, Liv is unforuntately left behind. She has a 2nd home in the Black Forest, which she (hopefully) enjoys! It takes forever to pick her up after a trip because these two love to recount all the crazy things our canine child did while we were away. Thanks to GM & GP Yañez, their great grand-dog was safe and sound during our journey.

Hundepension

Joe and I have utilized every possible type of transportaion during this Olmsted journey, except for long distance buses….until our trip to Poland! We spent ten hours on two bus trips between Gdansk and Krakow, which were actually really very comfortable and convenient. Thank you Laurie & Jim, for taking the stress out of traversing the entire country of Poland!

bus tickets

We kicked off our visit in Warsaw with a communist themed walking tour, thanks also to Laurie & Jim.

Warsaw's Castle Square

Warsaw’s Castle Square

We visited more museums in Poland than during any of our other trips. They were all really top-notch! Thank you Daryl & Denise and Mom for our morning at the Warsaw Uprising Museum.

Uprising

No trip to Poland is complete without some pierogies! We thought about you, Tana & Chip, whilst enjoying a myriad of pierogies in Warsaw. Thank you!

Pierogies

In Warsaw, there is a Fotoplastikon, which allowed visitors to view changing 3-D images of life during the 19th century. This Fotoplastikon is the only one in Poland, and one of only a few in the world. Thank you Mom and Daryl & Denise for this unique experience!

fotoplastikon

We finished up our Warsaw adventure with a meal at Czerwony Wieprz, which was voted one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world. This restaurant, translated to “Inn Under The Red Hog”, was named so because it used to be a meeting spot for “red” communist leaders such as Lenin, Fidel Castro, and Mao Tse Tung. Thanks Jernigan Family, for the tasty and educational dinner!

dinner

After arriving in Krakow, we oriented ourselves with a walking tour of the Old Town. Krakow experienced minimal destruction during WWII and communism, so the Old Town was really interesting to experience and learn about. Thank you Laurie & Jim, for another great walking tour!

The Cloth Hall in Krakow's Old Town

The Cloth Hall in Krakow’s Old Town

The Rynek Underground Museum is located beneath the main square in Krakow and allows visitors to stroll through what used to be the original streets and cellars of buildings that used to make up the main square hundreds of years ago. Thank you to Mom and Daryl & Denise for the really interesting view into Krakow’s history.

Underground

Thanks to Daryl & Denise and Lacey & Nolan, we enjoyed a visit to Wawel Hill, Krakow’s crown jewel of architectural treasures. Wawel Hill has everything a visitor could want: ancient history, political history, religious significance, documentation of current events, and even a great view of the city!!

The Cathedral on Wawel Hill

The Cathedral on Wawel Hill

Another great museum is housed in the factory that used to be owned by Oskar Schindler. Thanks to Daryl & Denise, we were able to learn more about Schindler, as well as the impact of Nazi Germany’s occupation of Krakow and Poland in general.

Schlindler

My favorite part of the museum was a circular room covered in newspaper-like print. Filling the walls were statements about Oskar Schindler, in many different languages, from the Jews who were saved in his factory.

He employed me at his factory, even though he knew I was useless to him.

He employed me at his factory, even though he knew I was useless to him.

The Galicia Museum is located in the historical Jewish district of Kazimierz in Krakow, and focuses on how Jewish life in Poland was, how it has changed, and what it is currently. What makes this museum really interesting is that it shares the development of Jewish life in Poland through only contemporary photographs. The intention is to teach history with photographs of the present. I really enjoyed this museum and thought the approach was remarkable. Thank you to Daryl & Denise and Laurie & Jim for this experience.

Galicia museum

We rang in 2014 in Krakow, complete with champagne and amateur fireworks! Thank you Laurie & Jim for the midnight treats!

Joe selecting our midnight libations.

Joe selecting our midnight libations.

We did a lot of eating in Krakow, to include lots of traditional polish dishes. However, about a year ago, Joe and I released ourselves of the pressure to eat local food for Every. Single. Meal. It was an amazing decision, because we have enjoyed many traditional spins on our favorite foods. The same Mexican restaurant was recommended by several of our friends, so of course we stopped in! It was soooo good. Thank you Daryl & Denise for the best Mexican we have had in Europe to date!

Mexican

I even had a cosmo for you, Daryl. It has been more than a decade since that ill-fated day with you, me, and the cosmos, but this one was well worth the wait! 🙂

cosmo

We also did some vodka tasting…also thanks to Daryl & Denise! Pretty good stuff!

vodka tasting

This is what happens after an entire bottle of wine…and numerous rounds of vodka samples as dessert. Whoops!

broken shots

We enjoyed a self-indulgent spa trip during our last stop in Poland, thanks to Tyler and Regina. I am still finding shea butter in mysterious places!

spa

Although not exactly part of our plans, the trip to the top of Kasprowy Wierch Mountain was beautiful! Thank you Daryl & Denise for the funicular tickets and lunch at the top of the mountain. Maybe all four of us can go snowmobiling someday together, since it didn’t work out this time around.

Zakopane

Finally, thanks to Mom, we were able to take home fun mementos from each of our stops! Someday our Christmas tree is going to be as packed-full as yours, Mom!

In the Cloth Hall of Krakow.

In the Cloth Hall of Krakow.

Thank you, everyone, for all of the experiences and memories from Poland! It was another fantastic Christmas gift, with your collaborative efforts!  Dziękuję!

Frohe Weihnachten!!

This post should really be titled, “Joe drinking Glühwein”! I swear, there are other things to do at Christmas markets, but drinking Glühwein is really the most fun! This year, our Christmas market-ing was all about re-visiting the places we love, and re-connecting with friends and family we love. Here are just a few of our adventures at the markets this year.

FREIBURG – During the very first night of the Freiburger Weihnachtsmarkt, Joe was interviewed by Baden FM, the major radio station of our state (Baden-Württemburg). After only a few sentences from Joe, the interviewer asked if he was from England or America. Then he asked why Joe was living in Freiburg. We have been through this drill of questions about a million times by now: it has become old-hat. However, what made this experience entertaining was the conversation that occurred after the interview. There were four German men at our table, also enjoying their Glühwein, who heard the entire line of questioning. Well, you know what Germans do when the words “American” and “political science” are together in any conversation…make NSA jokes. We can now add “NSA Agent” to the list of weird ideas people have regarding Joe’s occupation.

Freiburg

STRASBOURG, FRANCE – Hangin’ out in France, drinking vin chaud with American friends. We found out that Strasbourg has a Christmas market dedicated just to cookies!! Yes, pleeeeease!!

Vin Chaud

cookies

DORTMUND Six months ago, if you told me that I would go to Dortmund, Germany to meet up with a friend from Northern Ireland, who I met in Fiji…I would have punched you in the face. Pow! Right in the kisser! Well, it’s true. We’ve come a long way (literally and figuratively)…from drinking muddy kava in a tin shack to drinking Glühwein under the world’s tallest Christmas tree!

USA and Northern Ireland in Germany, via Fiji.

USA and Northern Ireland in Germany, via Fiji.

MÜNSTER We enjoyed the Christmas market in Münster, but what we really liked about the town was St. Lambert’s Church, where three human-sized cages hang from the spire. In the 1500s, three Anabaptists led a rebellion in Münster and their dead bodies were displayed in these cages to make examples of. Definitely a weird sight to see outside of a church!

Munster

DUISBURG Dusiburg had the largest Santa statue I had ever seen, who apparently prefers to have his dental work done in ghetto-gold!

Duisburg

INNSBRUCK, AUSTRIA – Innsbruck is such a pretty town, nooked in a valley and surrounded by the Nordkette mountain range. Every corner seems to have another beautiful winter view.

Innsbruck

Innsbruck is also home to a 13 meter/42.5 foot Christmas tree made of 170,500 Swarovski crystals! It was hard to determine what was more stunning: the tree, the scenery, or the weather!

Innsbruck tree

OBERAMMERGAU – We fell in love with Oberammergau during our first visit in September of this year. Returning during Advent just confirmed how charming this little town is. I mean, how quintessential is heading out in 18oF weather, with silver dollar snowflakes falling from the sky, snow crunching underfoot, to enjoy Glühwein around a bonfire and listen to musicians in Lederhosen play Christmas carols while Kris Kringle looks on? Yup…that’s just how perfect it is in Oberammergau!

Oberammergau concert

However, there was something even more great about our visit to Oberammergau than darling Christmas markets in the Alps: we got to meet up with Joe’s missing “track buddy” from our Spain adventure.

Oberammergau

Great fun for the entire crowd!!

The white on the right is the Oberammergau Ghost!!

The white on the right is the Oberammergau Ghost!!

AUGSBURG The Hurricanes stormed Augsburg as well! The Church-tour might not have been successful, but the Glühwein-tour was!!

Go Canes!

Go Canes!

NUREMBERGMy little sister was able to join us for Christmas and we were so excited to share the joy of German Christmas markets and Glühwein with her! I’m pretty sure she’s a fan!

Nuremberg

She also did a great job toughing out a 6-hour, 90% German visit with our Nuremburger friends. I think she even picked up a few words!

MUNICHShe even got to try a glass full of Glühbier! Also a fan!

Munich

EUROPA PARKAn adventure to Europa Park was never part of our original plans, but it ended up being an awesomely fun surprise for all three of us! I can’t remember the last time I was on a roller coaster, or a flying version of da Vinci’s pedaled “airplane”! Every single inch of Europa Park was covered in holiday decorations, lights, trees, and LOTS of presents!! If an evening at Europa Park doesn’t put you in the Christmas spirit…well, then…bah humbug to ya.

EuropaPark

Europa Park

So, that wraps up our last Christmas in Germany. Next year we’ll be back in the good ole‘ US of A. Wir sind echt traurig, dass unser letzter Weihnacht schon vorbei ist. Aber trotzdem wünschen wir euch einen frohen Weihnachten und ein schönes neues Jahr!

Trysta_Joe