The Longest Day

A foreign grave is a painful thing where loving hands no flowers can bring. – Corporal W.E. Robinson

Over 100,000 American WWII soldiers are buried in European soil. This is not to discount the innumerable individuals from every country involved in the war who have found their final resting place in foreign lands. The marked and unmarked graves are uncountable.

Those soldiers who are still missing, or those whose remains never made it to a proper cemetery, are not forgotten in the foreign lands where they gave their lives. Nothing shows this better than the small towns within Normandy. Driving through the countryside, amidst fields and neighborhoods spread across the region, there is a myriad of memorials to the heroic deeds of American and Allied soldiers. Some are large and bold, some are hidden and understated. All of them commemorate sacrifices made during ‘the longest day’ in our world’s history.

Iron Mike Monument – “In time of peace, sons bury their fathers. In time of war, fathers bury their sons.”

Iron Mike Monument – “In time of peace, sons bury their fathers. In time of war, fathers bury their sons.”

We visited Sainte-Mère-Église, one of the first towns liberated on June 6th. Paratroopers landed in Sainte-Mère-Église in the first hours of D-Day, many of them breathing their last breaths before their feet ever touched the ground. Most notably, Private John Steele, whose parachute got hung up on the church steeple, leaving him to hang there and watch the carnage below. Steele survived D-Day, and the war, and became an honorary resident of Sainte-Mère-Église. The Airborne Museum in town focused only on the paratroopers and their stories. This statue, titled “The Day They Came”, was inside the museum and was made by a French student. I thought it was really interesting how, throughout the region, town, and museum, the French people viewed D-Day and the soldiers of the Allied Forces as their saviors. This statue captured their agony prior to the arrival of Allied troops, specifically the Americans.

“The Day They Came”

“The Day They Came”

Sainte-Marie-du-Mont was also a really interesting town. Almost every street corner had a placard marking the location of a valiant deed, some of them performed by civilians at the risk of death:

Two German officers were studying a strategic military map atop the church steeple. Suddenly a strong burst of wind swept the map to the streets of the town below.  The German soldiers ran down after it, only to find a peasant artist. They asked the man if he had seen the map and he replied that he had not.  All the while, this man had found the map, quickly rolling it up and stuffing it into his pants.  When free of German soldier questioning, the peasant artist quickly handed the map (riddled with strategic military information) over to the Allied Forces.

Others showed the compassion that Americans showed on enemy forces, even when they could have made different choices:

An American paratrooper was crouched below the windows of the harness maker’s house, when a German soldier arrived. The two soldiers saw each other at the same time and fired at the same time. Shot dead, the paratrooper fell to the ground. The seriously wounded German was carried to the butcher’s shop where an American doctor saved his life. 

The German Cemetery at La Cambe was actually an American cemetery until 1947. It became a German cemetery in 1948 and contains over 21,000 graves of German soldiers. Having visited several WWII German cemeteries, it is hard to describe how they make me feel. Living in Germany, I have been lucky enough to experience the country and its people on a level most tourists can’t capture in a short visit. I know that Germany in the 2010’s is a very different place than it was in the 1930’s and 1940’s. However, many people unfortunately cannot see past the atrocities of the Third Reich. What’s important to remember is that not all German soldiers “had chosen either the cause or the fight”. They were sons, fathers, brothers, friends. They still deserve to be remembered.

German cemetery

Bayeux War Cemetery is a British cemetery that contains the graves of 4,648 soldiers from many different countries. I think Bayeux is the most beautiful cemetery I have ever visited. It was filled with blooming wisteria, huge trees, and flowers at every headstone. It was filled with life.

wysteria

trees

In French soil, amongst thousands of Allied troops, there are also 466 German soldiers buried in Bayeux. I don’t know what kind of controversy this caused decades ago, but today, I think it is pretty admirable. Honoring humanity instead of righteousness speaks strongly to the character of the French, the British, and all the families who buried a loved one here.

Every headstone was personalized, allowing the character and spirit of each individual to be celebrated indefinitely. These are the words of families who buried their soldiers in foreign graves:

We miss you when the morning dawns, we miss you when the night returns. – Private F. Chapman

May the sunshine you missed on life’s journey be yours in God’s home of rest. – Private E. Beecham

Oh the joy to see thee waiting on that eternal shore where we’ll meet once more. – Signalman S.W.Peckett

through the trees

No matter where they were buried, or when, the combined efforts of all fallen soldiers from ‘the longest day’ and WWII changed the world. Their bravery is not forgotten, neither in Normandy, nor at home in America.

La Porte Rouge

I’ve never eaten so much camembert, tried so many times to like Calvados, and seen 2:00am so many times in one week!

A huge thank-you to the Murphy family for arranging and then inviting us to share a week with them at ‘La Porte Rouge’. This lovely, early-18th century farmhouse was the base for our week in Normandy, France.

La Porte Rouge, The Red Door

La Porte Rouge, The Red Door

Out in the country side, it was the perfect place for multi-species races…

races

…and lots of s’more making!

s'mores!

Joe, Mom and I took a day-trip from La Porte Rouge to Mont-Saint-Michel, the 10th century abbey. The abbey itself is actually layers of three smaller churches, built upon each other atop the precarious precipice. Yeah, there have been a few collapses here and there, but all in all, it is pretty amazing how the massive structure has remained perched on top of a pinnacle that is only 30m wide at the very top!

monsanmichele

Erroneously, I thought Mont-Saint-Michel was actually an island. It was, long ago, and still is during spring tides. In 1969 a dam was built that blocked the Couesnon River, preventing its natural ebb and flow around the Mont. There are huge restoration plans currently in place to restore the Mont to its original estuary-like state, and undo hundreds of years of human alteration.

bay

View of the bay from the Abbey.

Despite its quirks, La Porte Rouge was a great place to catch up with friends over wine and port. The next time these three Scholar families will be together again will be state-side. Sad, I know, but we still had a great time and are truly appreciative for the invite and the fellowship! Thanks again Murphys!

the crew

Love these folks!

Oh yeah…one more thing. Don’t even think about playing a round of Mad Gab with S. Murphy, unless you want to lose handily! 🙂  

Merci!

For Christmas this year, we asked our family to send us to Paris for 5 days. Wow, did they do a great job!! Here is a huge “Merci” to our family, for helping us ring in the new year in style!

First, a huge thank you to DARYL and DENISE for the long-distance train tickets. Without you, we would still be sitting on the tracks in Freiburg! (Good news, our train journey was a bit more successful than yours was in September…phew!)

ICE train

I’m not going to lie. After 16 months, we were more than excited to head to one of only two Chiptoles in Europe. It was, self admittedly, our first stop in Pairs. Thank you, TANK and TAPANGA! You two don’t know what Chipotle is yet, but soon enough Uncle Joe is going to teach you how to do it right!
Chipotle

OK, off we go! Thank you, LAURIE and JIM for the public transit passes. We were all over the Metro, and hence, all over Paris!
Public Transit

The favorite landmark of Paris, the symbol of France, and really, the icon of Europe. Thank you, TAMMY for sending us straight to the top of the Eiffel Tower!
Eiffel Tower

Here is my half-hearted thank you to all the stairs we had to climb, but…
stairs

…all the more reason to celebrate with Champagne at the top!
Champagne

Thanks to the LAUGHLIN family for the souvenirs! Direct from the 2nd floor of the tower.
souvies

Leave it to the Grandparents to send us to the oldest topless joint in Paris! No pictures allowed inside the Moulin Rouge, probably because the ladies don’t want their business all over the Internet. Smart ladies. You’ll just have to trust me on the following performance details: 1 almost-completely-naked lady swimming with 4 ten-foot pythons, 6 almost-completely-naked ladies leading 6 miniature horses, and 9 pairs of one-legged pants. Thank you GMA & GPA YAÑEZ and GMA & GPA WALL for the great show!
Moulin Rouge

We couldn’t have had a more perfect day for a bike tour around the city. Blue skies, pleasant temps, and a subtly funny guide. Thank you, MOM for the four-hour tour on wheels!
fat tire

Joe biking

Our favorite dinner in Paris was at a very authentic hole-in-the wall. No English anywhere, but we managed to order successfully and loved the sangria, wine, and dessert. (Everything was great, especially the dessert!) Thank you, ERIC for the tip! What made this tip particularly serendipitous, was that the restaurant was located at a very important location from one of our favorite movies, Midnight in Paris. Every time the church bells rang, I peaked out the window of the restaurant, waiting for Hemingway to pull up in an old Peugeot and ask us to get in. I got more hopeful with every carafe of wine! Sadly, we must have been dining a bit too early, because Hemingway never showed. Regardless, thank you MIL & FIL STICKFORD for dinner!

Trust me, the sign lit on fire only for a little bit after this pic!

Trust me, the sign lit on fire only for a little bit after this pic!

No trip to Paris is complete without a stop at Versailles. Despite the unbelievable crowds…
versailles line

…we enjoyed touring the Palace and gardens. Thank you, TYLER and REGINA for a great day in Versailles!
Versailles fountain

In search of Ms. Mona Lisa, we headed to the Louvre. Thank you, TANA and CHIP for the opportunity to enjoy the world’s largest museum.

Us, doing our best "Chip"!

Us, doing our best “Chip”!

Here she is, with her paparazzi public!
Mona Lisa

This time, we managed to avoid huge lines. View from inside: the Louvre, the line, the feet.
view from the louvre

Finally, time to ring in 2013! With a great view of the tower, we said good bye to an amazing 2012.
Eiffel tower at night

Thank you, MOM for the yummy treats and Champagne for our midnight toast! We enjoyed some traditional french papillottes, which have a popper inside to help with the celebrations. If the rest of 2013 is as good as the champagne, chocolate, and mini fireworks, then we are in for a great year!
NYE snacks

Again, THANK YOU to our amazing family. We are in Europe because of how loving and supportive you are. We were in Paris because of how awesome you are! We had a great time! MERCI!
Merci kissing