A Tale of Two Three Cities
Luxembourg, another one of Europe’s forgotten “L” countries! Luxembourg is nooked between France, Belgium, and Germany, and unfortunately overlooked by most of Europe’s travelers. We really enjoyed this “sleeper” of a country, which is rich in history and continued development.
Founded in the 900s, this small Duchy has changed hands numerous times during its tumultuous past. Over 1,000 years of constant fighting has caused this country to become one of the most heavily fortified areas in Europe. Add on two World Wars and an economic restructuring in the 20th century and you get a picturesque capital city with three very distinct personalities.
The Alzette River runs through Luxembourg City and the oldest portions of the city are found along the river in the Vallée de la Pétrusse. The valley has its own neighborhoods, restaurants, hiking trails, nightlife, and a distinct feeling of old-world.
From above, you can walk the Chemin de la Corniche, which is commonly known as “Europe’s most beautiful balcony” and admire the view of the old valley.
Europe's most beautiful balcony
Spring in Luxembourg
Bock Casemates
During both of the World Wars, the Casemates were used as bomb shelters and could protect up to 35,000 people! Now, only 17km of the tunnel network still exist and only 13km are accessible by the public.
View from within the Casemates - cheezy lighting included
Away from the Peeping-Toms of the Casemates is a modern and booming city. During the 1970’s Luxembourg restructured its tax system and developed an economy that became attractive to international finance firms. It currently has the highest per-capita income in the European Union, as well as the highest concentration of banks. The European Union wanted to house its entire headquarters in the city, but Luxembourg refused, agreeing to take only the European Investment Bank and a few other offices.
View of the Bank Museum, from across the valley and Adolphe Bridge
On Sunday we headed out of town to the American Military Cemetery and Memorial, where over 5,000 soldiers and General George S. Patton are buried. Most of the soldiers resting here gave their lives during the winter of 1944-1945 in “The Battle of the Bulge”, the largest battle fought by the Americans in World War II. Ill-equipped for winter combat, America lost over 19,000 men between December and February. As we walked through the headstones on Easter Morning, as if to ensure we got the full experience, snow began to fall. We spent the morning in awe of “the Greatest Generation” and the uncountable sacrifices of a different time, place, and world.
American Cemetery and Memorial
Not more than 1.5km from the American Cemetery is the German Military Cemetery, where close to 11,000 German soldiers are buried. The contrasts between the cemeteries were obvious. Barely marked and off a Luxembourg highway, the cemetery is relatively hidden. The print material had not been updated since the 70s and there were numerous requests for donations. Each headstone marked the grave of 4 soldiers (2 in front of the headstone, and 2 on the other side) and the grounds were already showing signs of weed-growth. We were the only people there.
We have not lived in Germany very long, but we have quickly learned the current generation’s perception of and attitude towards WWII. For the most part, no one wants to address it or acknowledge that it even occurred. “Out of sight, out of mind.” This cemetery seemed to personify their outlook.
German Military Cemetery
As not to end on such a sour note, here is a pic of Liv enjoying her day in Luxembourg, running through more grass than she has seen since the States!
Liv in Luxembourg