Wenn’s am Mäntig 4i schloot. When the clock strikes four on Monday morning…
…Basel’s Fasnacht begins!
Americans call it “Marti Gras.” The majority of Europe calls it “Karneval,” the Germans call it “Fashing,” the Swiss call it “Fasnacht.”
Despite the fact that Lent has already begun, Basel kicks off the largest Fasnacht celebration in Switzerland the Monday after Ash Wednesday, and launches the Swiss into “die dreei schenschte Dägg” (the three most beautiful days). Morgenstreich is the first event of Fasnacht, starting at exactly 4:00am on Monday. Despite having classes several hours later, Joe and I headed to Basel around midnight to see what the Swiss were up to!
The celebrations last for exactly 72 hours, so immediately after the fourth toll, all of the lights in Basel’s city center are turned off and the “Cliquen” fill the city with light and music. Each Clique, or group, decorates a large canvas lantern with rhymes or paintings that are relevant to local events of the last year and each member of the Clique wears a small lantern on top of his/her head. These are the only lights that are used within the city until sunrise, and even flash photography is forbidden.
Trying to capture this unique event on film without a flash was, needless to say, quite challenging. However, one can always find intrigue within the blur.
I can’t say that I understood all the references being made on the lanterns, but it was definitely a unique festivity.
One Clique wore literal “lanterns” on their heads, which provided enough light to enjoy the balloon release.
Then there was this lantern, depicting 1912, which looked all innocent and whatnot…
…until we turned around and deduced how the Swiss feel about adolescence in 2012…
Eventually the “parade” breaks up, but each Clique continues to walk and play traditional Fasnacht songs, each choosing their own path through the city. Wandering from street to street, we enjoyed the drums echoing off the buildings or the tiny teetering of piccolos (the only two instruments used during Morgenstreich celebrations). Some Cliques had 75-100 members, others only 8-10, but both had the right-of-way and even a Vortrab (vanguard) to move spectators out of the way.
The Cliques can stop and take breaks whenever they want, but they should not reveal their identity, which breaks the traditions of Fasnacht. How these guys made it in or out of their “resting place” is unknown!
As the sun rose over the Rhine, Joe and I took the train back to Germany. We successfully made it to and through class! Who says all-nighters are only for college kids?!